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Many of us identify this flavor from childhood with the seed in the heart of a "jaw breaker," in gingerbread, apple pie, sausages and pickles, or an an ingredient of curry.

But few of us know the fresh leaves of this plant as Chinese parsley, as the cilantro of the Caribbean, the Kothamille of Mexico, or the Dhuma of India, where its somewhat fetid odor and taste are much treasured.

Use leaves only, no stems, and do not chop. Float the leaves in pea or chicken soups and in stews, place them on top of roasts, or use them in a court bouillon for clams.

Coriandrum sativum, a 12 to 18 inch plant, grows in moderately heavy soil and, while needing dreainage, can take some moisture.

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